Melbourne – Nullarbor Plain

After the ride in the ferry, we went to Sundowner Campground in the western part of Melbourne – this time with two frozen princesses (thanks to face painting on the ferry). The next day, we had a few things to do: Noras hiking boots needed a cobbler, we had to pick up two new iPads from Apple (Daniela’s old one was stolen or found and immediately taken at South Cape in Tasmania- and Markus had discovered the advantages of an iPad…) and Nora’s arm had to be xrayed again – luckily, it is healing well.
On the ship we heard about Ballarat, an old gold mining town. We visited the place the next day, we could wash gold ourselves in a little river, they showed craftsmen around 1850 und – for the children- there was a sweets making show with degustation. The Kids had the opportunity to be rich for some seconds, while holding a freshly poured goldbar of 3 kg (150’000$AU) in their hands!

P1030441 P1030458
P1030454 P1030446

Via Geelong we drove towards the Great Ocean Road, where you drive along the ocean for quite some time. We spent the next night at Cape Otway on the “Bimbi – Camping under koalas”and indeed, we discovered some grey furballs in the trees.

P1030473 P1030479
P1030464

After another 150km Great Ocean Road, in Warrnambool we turned inland towards the Grampians. We spent the night at Plantation Campground and the next day, we hiked to the “Pinnacles” before continuing to Lake Albacutya, where we spent the night.

P1030505 P1030496
P1030502

It was considerably warmer than at the coast and also our old friends – the sandflies! – were back. The next day, we went on in deep sand into the Wyperfeld National Park. We had to lower our already low tyre pressure at one dune to climb it – at another dune, Markus was so fast that a wine bottle broke and we lost the rear number plate. Fortunately, we realized it 25km later, drove back and found it (since the front number plate is already a fake one!).
Afterwards we continued further northwards to the Murray-Sunset park to the “Pink Lakes”, where we spent the night at Lake Hardie, a dry salt lake (it is really pink, due to betacarotin-producing algae!). The next day we drove on sand- and dirtroads through the Murray-Sunset Park and crossed the border to South Australia close to Meribah. We had to eat up all fruits and vegetables before – each state has its own regulation for the import of plant products.

 P1030517 P1030509
 DSC00738  P1030522

We went on towards Port Augusta and passed a night with the so far most mosquitoes (huge mosquito swarms right after sunset) close to Port Pirie at “Newoora Playground” – no wonder, there was a swamp right next to it.
In Port Augusta we visited the “Wadlata Outback Centre” – a good exhibition with interesting films and information concerning the outback.
In the swimmingpool of the Big 4- campground we could cool down and even Nora (the “one-finned fish” with arm Ding) and Fiona were again clean. Since the campground had an oven, we had self-made cake and bread !
The next day, we went to Port Lincoln, where we bought fresh fish and prawns before heading to “Mikkira Station”. There are currently living around 100 koalas (they were brough there 40 years ago). We slept under an eucalyptus tree, saw a few animals and the next morning, two koalas were even watching us having breakfast.

P1030538 P1030536
P1030563

When we visited Lincoln National Park the next morning, there was a seal splashing around right next to the shore at Cape Donnington and some of its friends were sitting on the nearby island. We drove back to Eyre Highway and they towards the Gawler Ranges and spent the night at Pildappa Rock.
The rock has a similar shape as the west australian Wave Rock, only smaller. Therefore, we had it to ourselves and climbed up at night to admire the stars. The next morning, we went on to the “Organ Pipes” (basalt formations in shape of organ pipes – just those we saw in Namibia were more impressive).

DSC00755 DSC00759
P1030589 DSC00766

In Ceduna, we filled up our tank and the jerrycans, the next night we spent at Cactus Beach – around 80 km west of Ceduna.
Now the Nullarbor Plain was waiting for us. For the kids, we installed our laptop between the front seats to watch movies – with Mickey Mouse, the Jungle Book and Blinky Bill the time on the 1000 km long distance in two days passed rapidly.

DSC00783
P1030600 P1030603

Tasmania

We started our side-trip to Tasmania with a night at Horsehead campground in Devenport. Since the weatherforecast was bad for the next days (finally, it staid dry and there were huge bush fires), we decided to first visit the eastern part. After the city-stress from Melbourne and the ride on the ferry, we relaxed in Kelso on the Big4-campsite (jumping-pillow, swimming-pool and lots of wombats).

DSC00661 P1030215

The first park wie visited was Ben Lomond National Park and the next day, after a really cold night, we climbed Legges Tor, the second hightest peak on the island. On the way back, we followed the road out from the ski slopes down Jacobs Ladder (mountain road with 6 hairpin bends).The impressive rock towers animated us to start again some rock climbing and by chance, we met two climbers on the parking who borrowed us their Tasmania climbing- guidebook for the next 3 weeks (thanks to Mark Feeney).

DSC00671 P1030232
P1030241 P1030248

We continued our trip on little roads via Upper Esk to Fingal (Goldmine-Region). The next day will be remembered by all of us: we drove to the Freycinet-National Park to Whitewater-Wall, were we went rockclimbing with the kids directly above the sea – they climbed in the rocks like koalas on trees and had fun. Even Fiona lost her fear of abseiling and hung herself into the rope with her back first.

By bedtime, our little ones were still playing in the rooftop tent instead of sleeping (as so offen). When Nora wanted to go to the toilet, she forgot to step out of her sleeping-bag and fell down the ladder. All that ended with a terrible screaming and crying. When she still did not move her arm the next morning, our borddoctor suspected a fracture. We interrupted the visit of the park and drove to the nearest Medical Centre in Swansea hoping they had an xray. The doctor there informed us that there were only two xrays in Tasmania – one in Hobart and the other one in Launceston and he sent us with the same suspicion to Hobart. There, the team of the Croco-ambulance dropped the patient and the house doctor at the Emergency Department of Hobart Royal Hospital and organized some food in a bakery in the meantime. 2,5 hours later we all left the hospital – with a sling decorating the patient’s arm for the next 6 weeks.

P1030253 rhh_samplephoto IMG_0082

The left humerus right below the shoulder was fractured, probably favoured by the insufficuent calcium-intake of our milk-hater. Since then, one yoghurt every morning is obligatory.
Luckily, hiking is also possible with a broken arm and with some help, she could climb the ladder into the tent. The same evening, we went to Dunalley (towards the Tasman National Park) – and after everything what happened, dad drove too fast when leaving a village and caught by the police who gave him a warning.

The next day, the mood got better and we continued to Fortescue Bay in the Tasman National Park. The campsite is directly at the beach and the sites were nice and even. The same day, we hiked to Cape Hauy to see the the impressive rock needles of the Candlelight Stick and the Totem Poles. On the way back, we even saw a snake.

DSC00677 DSC00678

The next stopover was the southernmost point of Australia, South Cape Bay. We drove through the region southwest of Hobart (which is famous for its fruits and vegetables) to Boltons Green Campground, a campsite at the mouth of Cockle Creek under nice trees with overhanging branches.
When talking to other campers, we found out that our neighbour, Jesse Lethbridge, Building didgeridoos and does a lot of music himself. We made an appointment for making some music with alpine horn and didgeridoos together after the 2-day hike with a night at South Cape Bay. It was great to see the high waves and und wild beaches of the ocean and in the evening, we even saw a quoll next to our tent.

P1030262 P1030257
P1030270 P1030272
P1030284 P1030281

When we came back, Jesse and Markus climbed into the big tree which served the older children as playground and for climbing. We figured out that didgeridoo and alpine horn match together very well and we attracted an audience from the whole campsite.

P1030289 P1030290

Because we intend to buy a didgeridoo, we asked Jesse what to pay attention to and where and from whom the best ones are available. The next morning, we did a little recording before heading to the thermal pool at Hastings Cave.
Afterwards, we went to the Mount Field National Park where we saw our first rain in Tasmania on the normally pretty humid island – at least in the Western part. We did two hikes: the first day, we went via Dobson Lake to Tarn Shelf and the second day to Mount Field East. On the way down, Nora spotted a rare white-lipped-snake and the next morning, we saw for the first time a platypus in the creek on the campground.

P1030310
P1030332 P1030335

We heard about severe bush fires in the north west, in the Cradle Mountain park and the Walls of Jerusalem Park due to the dry weather and many roads were closed. Unfortunately, also the roads in the South West park were concerned and so we went to Lake Burbury. By chance, it was Australia day the next morning (26.1.) and the campground served as a ground for the celebrations including several childrens’ activities.
We continued to Macquarie Harbour with the famous Hell Gate, the narrow rocky entrance of the harbour. We drove northwards and crossed the Pieman River to Corinna by ferry, but the planned route via the Western Explorer Road to the north west was closed due to bushfires. Even the campsite at Savage River was closed and eventually, we spent the night at the beautiful Hellyer Gorge Reserve where Daniela spotted two platypus on her night walk.

P1030349 P1030353

On 27.1., we went to Cradle Mountain National Park intending to hike to the summit the following day. But on arrival, we learned the park was closing due to a changing direction of the wind (risk of spreading fires from the neighbouring and already closed „Walls of Jerusalem National Park“ ) and they were deciding whether reopening the park the next morning.
The next morning, Markus was at 08:00 am at the information centre and fortunately, the situation had calmed down a bit and some trails were open. Despite clouds and rain, we walked from Dove Lake via Wombat Pool and -Peak to Crater Lake and Ronny Creek. Because we were wet anyway, Daniela also hiked back through the valley to the campground. Unfortunately, wie did not have any views or -in other words – only one view: grey fog!

P1030368 P1030370
P1030374

On the 29th, we continued to the Gunns Plains with stopover at Leven Canyon. We visited the Gunns Plain Caves – wonderful caves with a very good guide making plenty of jokes. He even demonstrated how Fionas blinking shoes coud provide light for orientation in case of a breakdown of electricity.

We spent the night in the nearby Wings Wildlife Park in pouring rain. Fortunately we had chosen a spot in the upper part close to the shelter- the proper campsite down at the creek got flooded during the night- several tents and campervans had to be evacuated and their chairs and tables swam away.

P1030377 P1030382
P1030383 P1030397

After visiting the wildlife park the next morning we drove back to the coast where we could watch a platypus for over an hour splashing around in the river in Ferndale Reserve at Burnie.
In the evening we went to the „Penguin Observatory Centre“ to see their arrival at the beach. Unfoertunately, there were only two penguins this evening, but the free guided tour was very good and the place a lot nicer and less touristic than Philipp Island.

DSC00724 IMG_0091

At 10:15 pm we went back to Devonport for our last night in Tasmania, from Girdlestone Park we had only 5 minutes to the ferry the next morning. Loading and departure were without problems (interestingly, there are almost no quarantine regulations when returning to Victoria from Tasmania). The strong wind which already stopped us from sleeping the previous night let the ferry rock when leaving Tasmania but calmed down later on.

P1030422 P1030428
P1030430