Uluru – Lake Eyre – Flinders Ranges

We spent some time in Alice Springs in the swimming pool of the campsite to teach the kids in swimming (Fiona paddles proudly in her swimvest in the pool, but she has not enough propulsion). We cleaned up the fridge and the storage boxes and we met Wolfgang and Jacqueline (a German couple who are touring around Australia since a moment, and we met them some days later again at Ayers Rock). Markus received his birthday gift: an Awning with a flynet (see photos) for the Crocomobile. He had to mount it himself – at 40°C in the sun next to the shop where we bought it. We stocked up on food in the supermarket, visited the desert park and learned there a lot about the plants and animals in desert areas.

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Afterwards we headed on to Ayers Rock/Uluru – 443 km of boring tarred tourist route. The following day we slept in and crawled a bit along the rock in the heat of the day and went to the visitors centre. On the second day we struggled out of our sleeping bags at 5am, closed the rooftop tent (disadvantage of this kind of tent) and arrived just in time for sunrise at the viewing point where we were queueing with the masses of tourists to have the best view. After some souvenir photos we were heading directly to the Olgas (Katja Tjuta) to do some hiking before it got too hot at noon. Anyhow Nora and Fiona reached the second Lookout – on the backside of the lookout (Daniela did the whole circuit) were only lots of flies and it was even hotter.

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The days after we continued towards the Oodnadatta Track. We spent the first night at Kulgera Camping (with resembled more a parking or construction site than a campsite). There were a lots of guests who filled their tanks on us and leaved their sucking points (Mossies). On a gravel road, we drove to Finke (Old Ghan Track) with a stop-over for an ice-cream and some information concerning the next kilometers at Mount Dare before continuing to Dalhousie. This campsite is often used as a start- or endpoint of a Simpson-desert trip. There is an artesian Spring flowing into a 39°C-warm lake (unfortunately like the temperature of the air…) – almost too warm for a swim during day-time. Amazingly the ducks could stand the hot water the whole day long.

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On bad roads, the trip went to the Pink Roadhouse in Oodnadatta where we spent the night after eating their famous Burgers and visiting the painted desert situated west of that town. The Oodnadatta Track follows the old Railwayline towards the south and the next day we drove until Coward Springs (where one of the springs is collected and is led into an artificial pool). We visited source of the springs the day after, but swimming was prohibited.

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On this campsite, we noticed the first flat tyre – not surprising after these bad roads! After a cold drink and helpful informations at the hotel in Marree we spent the next night at Muloorina on the way to the Lake Eyre – a huge almost always dry lake, which we visited in the morning. We continued our journey in southwards, let the flat tyre repair in Copley, did some shopping in Leigh Creek and stopped finally at Parachilna to eat in the restaurant the famous feral plate with Emu, Kangaroo and Camel.

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After a night on a nice free campsite in the Parachilna-Gorge we entered the Flinders Ranges National Park from the north via Blinman. The Campground at Wilpena is a good deed – finally hot showers, good drinking water, cooler temperatures and almost no flies! About the tourists with flynets on their heads we were only laughing after our suffering in the desert.

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We shooed our kids the next day by foot up the Mount Ohlssen Bagge – and they were quite motivated especially at the the rocky sections where they had to climb.

Alice Springs – Mac Donnell Ranges

In Alice Springs we stocked up on food and saw the “usual attractions”. In the Reptile Centre, we could hold the animals in our hands (snakes, lizzards, perenties) and learned some interesting facts about their behaviour.

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At the “Flying Doctors” you learn about the history of the organisation as well as about the actual situation of the medical support in the outback. In the “School of the air” our children received a private tour in German. They explained them which lessons they would have to absolve (on the Computer) at their stage of education and at the end, they received colouring books.
We continued to the West Mac Donnells Ranges, a park with nice and simple campsites (Ellery Creek, Ormiston and Redbank Gorge), each one close to a Natural Waterhole. Early in the morning we went on short hikes and cooled down in the water afterwards. Unfortunately, at Redbanks Gorge in addition to the omnipresent and annoying sandflies, we were surprised by a swarm of bees while cooking. Our children panicked and dinner the same evening and beakfast the next morning (they came back!)was impossible.
Fortunately, flies and bees go sleeping during the night!

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On the Mereenie-Loop (bad corrugated road on aboriginal country) we drove on to Kings Canyon. We got up at 5 am in order to start the hike before 6 am to avoid the heat later on. The hike was beautiful, and thanks to the training of our children in the alps, we made the hike in the indicated 3.5 hours (despite several breaks) – and they amazed other groups.

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To test our 4x4Crocomobile thoroughly, we went to the Finke National Park. There we drove in deep sand through the “Boggy Hole” (which has earned its name for a reason!). Here Markus celebrated his 42.birthday. We even had cake from the camp fire oven: instead of 42 candles, we put 42 flies on the cake (see photos!) – probably, there were several hundreds of them around us.

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Afterwards we spent another night in Palm Valley (Finke National Park). There was also a crazy 4×4 track through a rocky riverbed.

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Back to Alice Springs, we offered us (and mainly our children) the “luxury campsite” of the Big 4 with swimming pool, water slide, jumping pillow and laundry machines.

Through the desert

The first stop-over with our Crocomobile was Marburg, a village 100 km West of Brisbane, where we visited Katja on her farm. Katja is a distant relative of Markus – we already visited her parents and her sister in South Africa.

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From there we continued to the last city of importance – Toowoomba – further and further into the outback. It got drier, the landscape got scraggy and the country was only sparsely populated. Unfortunately, there were lots of overrun kangoroos on the road -(Fiona: oh, my my dear cute kangoroos…) – luckily, there were also a few alive ones sitting under the trees in the shade. In Charleville we left the A2 and continued on smaller, still good and tarred roads towards Quilpie (opal mines) and Windorah.
Shortly afterwards the gravel road started. The campgrounds consisted often only of one single rubbish bin (but were for free then). A surprise was Bedourie: the village with 100 inhabitants has a free swimming pool with thermal whirlpool for itself directly beside the beautiful campsite – in the middle of the desert!

Boulia was the last “city” with 600 inhabitants before the Plenty Highway, it offered a multimedia show and a well-equipped shop which also sells camping gear, do-it-yourself articles, car parts, spare wheels and concrete mixers.
In contrast to many reports we read, the Plenty Highway was pretty good gravel on the Queensland side (Donohue Highway), on the Northern Territory side it was badly corrugated.

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The road was that boring that we made only a one night stop-over at Jervois Station (again a campsite with only rubbish bins and a pick-nick table). Close to Gem Tree we went fossicking for gemstone on our own (and we found a few pieces) and spent the night at Ross River Resort in the Estern Mac Donnell Ranges (Lodge and Camping with swimming pool and very expensive petrol). With a stop-over at the N’dhala Gorge National Park with a short break we travelled to Alice Springs.

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