Perth – Wiluna

On the 28th of February, Daniela’s parents could pick up their rented campervan and wie met up at a shopping centre in the northern suburbs of Perth. We continued to the campsite at “Willowbrook Farm” close to Gingin, where we celebrated Daniela’s birthday with grilled sausages, salads and a self-made “crocodile cake” (Alemannia Café with Iring and a sugar crocodile). Unfortunately, the made-in-china-candles did not burn properly and Blei out with the slightest air breeze. Of the balloons produced in the same country, only few survived the inflation and none the next morning.

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t is not exactly known how these columns were formed, most probably they originate from petrified tree trunks.

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We spent the Night in Port Denison and the next day, we went to Kalbarri national park with interesting rock formations at thr coast. We spent the night some kilometres further south at Wagoe Campsite. The next day, we went snorkelling at the Blue Holes in Kalbarri Park where it is possible to go into shallow rock pools directly from the beach and observe colourful fish while standing – also Nora got to see a lot.
After a short drive we also hiked to the lookouts in the gorges of the Kalbarri-parkes before spending the next night at the 24h-rest area at Four Mile Pool on the highway.

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With stopovers at the Overlander Roadhouse (Hans-Peter spent a night there a couple of years ago) and the Shell Beach close to Nanga Station wie went on to Denham with our Crocomobile and the campervan. On the campground, Nora and Fiona practised swimming and snorkelling. Because the Francois Peron Park is only accessible for 4WDs and unsuitable for the campervan, we split up the next day: Mechthild was sent to the Denham aquarium with Nora und Fiona, Hans-Peter drove to the park with Daniela and Markus. We Even persuaded him to drive the Crocomobile himself through the Sand – he probably would have loved to change his campervan for a 4WD and would have continued…From Cape Peron, we saw manta Rays, a little shark and a ray.

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After a night with lots of flies next to a radio tower close to the high way, we went via Carnavaron to Point Quobba. The attractions there are on one hand the “Blowholes” – natural Rock holes where the water is squeezed through under pressure and Comedy up aus fountains – in the other hand the lagoon with ideal snorkelling conditions for the kids.

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In Coral Bay wie did 2 boat trips to nearby Ningaloo Reef (coral reef): first a glass bottom boat tour with all of us. We drove directly over the corals and colurful fish, saw giant turtles and our children got the chance to feed the fish.
This tour turned out to be a private one because nobody else had booked in. We got the opportunity to learn a lot about this underwater world.
Markus und Daniela did the snorkelling tour afterwards: it was impressing to swim over the corals among the fish and turtles!

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In Exmouth we discovered our car being next to another car with a Swiss number plate at the shopping centre. On the campsite we met the Buchmanns, a family touring Australia over the same time as we do (www.fambu5.ch).

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We spent two nights at Ningaloo Caravan and Holiday Resort with a big pool and a water playground in town. The kids took the chance to play with Len, Suena und Zoe Buchmann. We continued to the Cape Range Park where we snorkelled at Turquoise Bay and at Oyster Stacks between lots of colourful fish and even Fiona got to see some fish through her goggles. One morning we hiked through Mandu Mandu Gorge.

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We left the park towards the south via Yardie Creek in the early morning (exactly at 06.09h, when the tide was lowest), drove along the coast back to Coral Bay – the campervan had to take the tarred road via Exmouth and we met up again in heat, storm and flies at the Barradale 24h-rest area. The next day we went to Onslow, a salt mining town, without any important touristic attraction. Because one campground (Ocean View Caravan Park) was a major construction site, we accomodated at Discovery HP Onslow.

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For the next 36 hours, the campervan and the Crocomobile separated :
unfortunately, the Millstream Chichester Park is only accessible on Travel roads which arerreichbar, die für das Mietmobil verboten sind. In Pannawonica we got the permit to drive on the road which is maintained by the mining company from Millstream Park to Karratha (permit is for free after watching a 20-min video). The western part of the park is like an oasis with its lakes and gorges compared to the surroundings, but we were the first visitors of the season and especially at night it was unbearably hot. Due to the temperatures and because not even the rangers had seen the condition of the walking tracks, we only did a short loop close to the visitor centre.

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We met Daniela’s parents again at Dampier Transit Caravan Park where they had already spent the previous night. The campground is next to the freight harbour where you can observe the loading of the huge ore ships. The Pilbara is known to be the biggest ore mining region worldwide and with trains of several kilometers in lenght the ore is brought to the coast. The next day, we had by chance a private tour at the North West Shelf Visitor Centre, where we learned a lot about exploitation, drilling, processing and shipping of the gas.

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In the afternoon, we visited the Aboriginal Art in der Deep Gorge in the recently founded Murujuga Park (Burrup Peninsula) before going shopping in Karratha.

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On the further way towards the East, we visited the abandonned town Cossack (former important harbour and economical centre for pearls) with police station, post office and shops and then went snorkelling at Honneymoon Cove at Point Samson. The bay was nice, but compared to Nigaloo reef there were disappointingly few fish.

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We spent the night at the Peawah-River and drove on to Port Hedland the next morning . There we tried to observe the loading of ore ships, unfortunately there a lots of fences and you cannot see a lot. We bought 3 additional plastic diesel jerry cans and a safety flag for the planned desert expedition (Canning-Stock-Route). The next stopover was the Karijini National Park. The campground at Dales Gorge is accessible on a tarred road, the rest of the park unfortunately only on gravel roads. The next morning, we squeezed into to Crocomobile to explore the western part of the park. The gorges are impressing, we walked the Weano Gorge with Oma and the kids and afterwards, Markus and Daniela walked through the more challenging Hancock Gorge. Here, in the lower part you can choose to climb over the rocks or to swim through the pools…Because Markus was carrying the backpack with the photo-camera, it was decided who walked and who climbed. At Kermit-pool, the backpack was deposed and also Markus refreseh by jumping into the water.

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On the way back, we realized a clapping and grinding somewhere on our car. At the campsite, Markus removed one rear wheel and saw the origin of the noise. The covers of the brakes were torn and were now only attached to a single screw after all the bumpy roads. After taking them off, the noise was gone. The nett morning, a dingo visited us for breakfast.

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In Newman wie brought these covers to a garage for welding and booked a tour for the Mount Whaleback Mine (iron ore mine ), which we found disappointing compared to the superpit-tour because we left the bus only at one viewing poinr far away from the mine and the guide only read their papers. But the amounts of ore which were mined were impressing: 14 trains, each one which 34200t iron ore in 259 wagons of a total length of 2.8km leave the mine each day towards the coast and fill up one ship.

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At Gascoyne River next to the highway we had a farewell sausage and farewell beer from Opa.
The next day wie quickly met them in Meekatharra for an ice-cream and then turned off to Wiluna while “Oma und Opa” slowly had to go back to Perth via the goldfields.

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In Wiluna we enquired about the condition of the planned desert track, the Canning Stock Route – we wanted to di the southern part up to Kunawaritji. At several official sites (police, shire, petrol station, campsite) we were told that there was an unusual amount of rain for the season in the last days and that nobody had done the Canning Stock Route so far in this season. This meant that it would be impossible ro get more concise infomation on the current condition of the track. They disadvised us to do it, dass the first groups were expected in mir-april. We saw huge puddles of mud next to the road around the town, we tried the first few hundred metres of the Canning Stock Route and indeed, again mud puddles (which wie could have passed easily) – but the question was how it would continue. We thought of the upcoming creek crossings, especially the Savory Creek at Well 19. We decided against trying it and for the moment we drove northwards on the North Road and later on the highway towards Newman.

 

Kalgoorlie – Perth

After we as parents recovered from an overdose of childrens’ movies at Mt Thirsty close to Norseman, we drove on to Kalgoorlie the next day. This town owns the biggest gold mine in Australia which we wanted to see. On february 14th, we visited the museum and the city which has a number of historic buildings remaining from the time of the gold discovery and we booked the 2.5h Superpit-Tour for the next day.

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First, we were afraid the tour being too long for our children, but the fun already started with the hand-over of the security clothing (vest, glasses, helmet).
When we saw the first big machines, the children were enthusiastic. The dumptrucks (CAT 793) were especially impressive: they came out of the 500m pit with 250 tons of stones each time. They are loaded by diggers (Komatsu 8000) which carry each time 50 tons in their shovel. Before, the rock was loosend before by blazing and according to the material drilled our for the blazing holes, they know the gold contents of each area.
When driving out of the Superpit (overall size 3500m x 1500m x 500m depth), the trucks are led to different depots according to the gold concentration in their load.
Currently, only material with a high concentration is refined- out of one truck load, they get around 80g gold.
The remaining matrial with a lower gold concentration is currently stored on the area next to the pit. For the processing of these stones, it is planned to let the mine continue for another 13 years after finishing the digging (probably in 2021).
We rarely had such a good guided tour, there was a lot of information and live demonstrations: we could observe the loading and unloading of the dumptrucks and we saw the machines for extracting the good when driving through.

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Our children got infected by the “mine machine virus” and after the tour, they received their toy dumptruck and digger for playing on the campgrounds. All of them have more than enough sand, dirt and stones- our children found that these vehicles were the ideal toys.
We had chosen the “Holland Track” leading from Coolgardie to Hyden for heading on. After the tour we made it to “Thursday Rock” which we had to ourselves – with at least 100 km to the next house.
The next day, the track continued with slalom around trees, passing through and around mud holes and over rocky sections.

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Finally, we arrived at the famous Wave Rock. After evening photos, a night at the campsite and a morning walk to the “yawning hippo” and to the top of the rock, we headed on south to Lake Magenta and Fitzgerald National Park.

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After visiting the beach, we staid here for one night at the campground “St. Mary’s Inlet”. We saw lots of interesting plants, many of them in blossom – some species only exist in this park.
The next morning, went straight through the park to Bremer Bay. The “continuous” road on the map turned out to be the crossing of an estuary and would have been possible only on absolutely low tide. But we arrived at Almosen high tide and Daniela got into the water up to her back when crossing it on foot. We had to go back 20km to leave the park on another road.

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Initially, we had planned to drive to Stirling Range National Park and to for a hike that day. We cancelled it due to the weather: there were grey clouds in the sky and with the starting rain, we did mit want to to on a hike on which we would not have had any view.
We went on to Porrongurup National Park, where there was no sun neither but at least no rain. We walked up to Castle Rock: there was the “balancing rock” (our childrens tried to push it down) and the skywalk- some scrambling over ladders and boulders to an overhanging platform beside the rock. Without the fog, there would have been a great view…

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After the night at Porongurup Caravan Park we went further south to Albany. There, we bought an annual pass for the parks in Western Australia and had our front tyres switched with the back tyres in a garage to prevent inequal usage. We visited the blowholes at Torndirrup National Park (by the pressure of the Waves, air is blowholes through a gap between the rocks) and Stony Hill, afterwards wie continued to the Giant Trees close to Walpole.
Instead of the famous but very expensive Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk (zu teuer), we did the also beautiful and free Tingle Tree Walk, where you Fan admire several of these eucalyptus giants and them went on to Crystal Springs.

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WFrom there, we reached d’Entrecastaux National Park on small Travel roads and finally sand tracks through the dunes at Windy Harbour. Some Kilometers before the village, there was another Landrover on the Track which got bogged in the sand. We helped them to get out (they had already done most of the work) and we passed the section without any problems due to a low tyre pressure. After a break at Windy Harbour, we drove on toWarren National Park and saw one of “Dave Evans Bicentennal Trees” an. This tree was one of the Fire lookout towers.
Over Windung stairs consisting of pegs drilled into the tree, it is possible to climb up to the platform 65m above the ground. We only did the first few meters. For the next day, we had planned a track along the coast up to Augusta. Again due to a sufficiently low tyre pressure, the deepest sand was no problem. After a photo stop at Cape Leeuwin, we went to Conto Camping at the Cave Road.

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After a rainy night, we had to get set up with helmets and torches at Calgardup cave and we climbed down into the depths of the Cave – the children in front as little spelunkers. We had 45minutes to visit this beautiful cave (selfguided) and it was always a struggle between the two kids who was walking in front. After another Crocomobile-drive, we reached Bunbury where we booked two nights on the Big4Campsite.

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We profited of its infrastructure and the three women baked bread, cake and biscuits. In the dolphin centre, we informed ourselves about these ocean mammals and weile we balanced the pros and contras of the a boat tour to see them, the Bell rang to announce dolphins at the beach.
Like all the other visitors, we immediately ran to the beach and really: directly in front of us, some dolphins were splashing in the water. Under instruction of the volunteers we could even get close to them in the water. Therefore, the boat Tour was no longer an issue and wie saved the 150$. On the was back to the campground, we did a short detour Mangrove Walk.

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In Perth, many tourist attractions were under construction and we liked the city only moderately. However, the ringing of the bells at Swanbell Tower was really nice.
On 26.2., wie visited Fremantle which we liked more due to its charming city centre. Also the guided tour through the ancient famous prison was very interesting. We had planned to buy a didgeridoos at “Didgeridoobreath”. We got a professional advice and finally acquired a very nice didgeridoo made from eucalyptus tree – made by Jesse we had met on the campground in Tasmania. In the evening, Markus went back to the store to do some recording with didgeridoo and alphorn with Sanshi (owner of the shop).

Here are the 3 Pieces:

Markus & Sanshi 1

[sc_embed_player_template1 fileurl=”http://crocomobile.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Markus_Sanshi1.mp3″]

Markus & Sanshi 2
[sc_embed_player_template1 fileurl=”http://crocomobile.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Markus_Sanshi2.mp3″]

Markus & Sanshi 3
[sc_embed_player_template1 fileurl=”http://crocomobile.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Markus_Sanshi3.mp3″]

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On 27.2., wie met Daniela’s parents at Ibis hotel in Perth and visited again the city centre of Perth and the Kings Park. On 28.2., wie headed on to the north…

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